Archive for General

Build your Own Home Workshop, Part 6: Welding

January 10, 2012 / billw / No comments

by Bill Wilson

Welding is a handy skill to have, not just for working on cars and trucks but also for doing general repairs around your home or for friends and neighbors. In this installment we’re going to cover the fundamentals that you need to know to set up a safe, simple and effective welding station with which you can do basic welds.

This article is intended as a high-level introduction to the subject, not as an in-depth tutorial. If you’ve never welded before and you want to pursue this subject further, there are plenty of more advanced learning resources available, from books and videos to classes offered at tech schools and career centers across the country.

What is Welding?

Simply put, welding is a method by which two pieces of metal are joined together by applying extreme heat to both. Done properly, the result is a bond between the two which is incredibly strong and durable. All types of metal can be welded, including iron, steel and aluminum. Even different types of metal can be joined in this way, such as aluminum and steel.

Safety Considerations

Welding has a reputation, largely undeserved, for being a dangerous profession. This is due primarily to the fact that it involves creating the extremely high temperatures needed to melt metal. For example, to melt iron or steel requires temperatures close to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit (app. 1600 degrees Celsius)!

To do this usually involves generating electric arcs or using combustible gasses that are under high pressure and are set aflame with a spark. If caution isn’t exercised when welding, the result can be severe shocks or damage to the lungs from inhaling fumes. In addition, burns to the skin or the eyes can occur if proper safety equipment isn’t worn.

Fortunately, these kinds of hazards can be avoided by following some basic precautions. Here’s a list of equipment that you’ll need before you start welding.

Helmet/Hood

This is an absolute must for any welder. Welding arcs give off intense amounts
of ultraviolet radiation, which can do the same damage to your eyes as staring at the sun for long periods of time. To protect against this you need a hood, also known as a helmet, that covers your eyes, face and neck. Cheaper ones have lenses that you can change out by hand, but nowadays most welders use auto-darkening masks that automatically adjust to give your retinas the necessary amount of shade.
These hoods can be found for as little as fifty bucks or so, and do an excellent job of guarding against vision loss. Amazon.com and northerntools.com both sell them, or you can just visit your local welding shop.

Gloves

These are a necessity for welding. Some seasoned welders get by with cotton or wool ones, but for a beginner there’s real only one choice. Buy a pair of quality cowhide ones that cover your hands and forearms and are insulated. NEVER use gloves made of a synthetic material, as these will invariably melt or catch fire, injuring you seriously.

Apron

Another item you simply cannot afford to do without. Get a quality leather apron. It will protect you from flecks of molten metal that occasionally leap off the work area. If one of those touches exposed skin then you’re going to the hospital.

Hat

Especially important if you have longer hair. Wear cotton, not synthetic. Yes, cotton can catch fire, but in this case it’s acceptable, since the only other alternatives usually available are made of synthetic materials that can melt into your skin. Welding shops have cheap hats that are made especially for this purpose.

Basic Safety Practices

Wind and bright sunlight are your enemies when welding. The sun makes it harder to see the flame from your torch, and wind or fan-blown air will interfere with the gasses and electric arcs needed for a strong weld. Do your welding inside the shop, and be ready to deal with the heat. In the summertime keep plenty of cold water or one of those thirst quenching drinks like Gatorade close at hand. If you find yourself sweating profusely or getting dizzy, STOP and take a break. Heat stroke will kill you quick.

While you don’t want wind or fan-blown air, you do want plenty of ventilation in the area where you’re working. Welding creates noxious fumes that can choke you. Be certain you’re not in a tight or enclosed area.

Make sure the pieces you’re welding together are well supported. Metal supports known as “dead men” are readily available, or you can make your own from threaded rod. The parts you’re working on MUST be in the correct orientation, else you’ll be doing the job a second time, and that’s no fun at all.

It can be tempting to just lay the pieces out on a concrete floor and join them together there. Don’t. The heat from a welding torch is so intense that it will vaporize the moisture in the concrete, sending a flash of steam right at you or even dislodging a chunk of cement that, under pressure from heat and steam, will fly at you like a bullet.
Do your welding on a welding table or by using proper supports.

 

Types of Welders

Stick Welding – if all you want to do is simple repairs or basic jobs like joining angle iron together, then this is all the welding you need to learn. Also known as shielded metal arc welding, good systems can be bought new for under $100. This process uses an electric arc that makes direct contact with the metal. The heat of the arc is adjusted by setting the power level, which normally runs from 30 to 225 amps for a basic unit. Lots of farmers are old hands at using these kinds of welders to repair plow blades and other equipment, and perhaps one will show you how to do it if you ask him nicely.

Oxy-Acetylene Gas Welding

This is truly the old-school approach to welding. It offers the advantage of affordability; used rigs are plentiful on sites like craigslist.org as well as in local trade papers. And having one gives you the ability to both weld and cut metal.

One thing to watch out for is the age of the tanks, which must be recertified every 10 years. A used set might need to be recertified, which can be done at a local welding shop. Or you can simply rent tanks form the same store.

MIG/Flux-Core Wire-Feed Welding

This is perhaps the most common type of welding rig you’ll see in auto shops. It relies on a wire feed as well as an inert gas such as argon to complete the weld. A used 120 volt setup will set you back about around $150-$200, not including the gas bottles, which can be picked up at a welding shop.

Making Your Welding Rig Portable

You will probably want a cart to put your welding tools in, so you can take them to the site where the work is being done. These need not be fancy or expensive. In fact, you can buy a cart for $50 or so from Harbor Freight Tools (www.harborfreight.com) . Normally I wouldn’t recommend Harbor Freight as a source for equipment, but they’re not bad at all when it comes to basic items like this one. In addition to their website they have stores in most large to mid-size cities. They’re fun places to browse around, with thousands of items of varying levels of quality.

Wrapping Things Up

I hope you’ve enjoyed this series on putting together your own auto shop. For more information on specific topics, check out the great selection of books available at www.performanceparts.com. Feel free to email or call us with any questions, and best of luck with your automotive projects!

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Build Your Own Home Workshop, Part 5: Electric Tools and Testers

January 6, 2012 / billw / No comments

by Bill Wilson

Power-driven tools add a host of new capabilities to the home workshop, but they can also quickly become prohibitively expensive. In this post I will spend most of the time discussing the basic ones that almost every shop will want to have. Later on I’ll discuss others that will come in handy for more specialized tasks, such as bodywork, painting and mounting tires to wheels.

Drill Press

This is a must-have for any properly equipped shop. Fortunately, perfectly adequate ones can be found at very reasonable costs. You’ll definitely want one with an attached vise to hold parts in place while you drill. Otherwise parts are likely to start spinning around like a top.

Try to get a drill press with at least a ½ horsepower motor. One way to save money is to buy a press that mounts on a table, as opposed to one with a built-in floor stand.

In addition to the press, you’ll want quality hardened bits in all the major sizes, such as ¼, 5/16, ½, 9/16, etc. Make sure they’re intended for metalwork. Have plenty of spares as well, because nothing will wear a bit down like drilling through steel. Step-bits have a specially designed head that creates a pilot hole for the main bit to follow. Buy these if your budget permits; you’ll find they save a lot of hassle.

Handheld/Angle Grinder

If you get no other power tool, get one of these, along with several different types of grinding discs. They clean up the crud left over after welding. They remove excess metal or paint. They’ll make short work of surface rust. They can even be used to sharpen a lawnmower blade that has been removed from the mower and securely clamped into a vise. Always wear goggles or safety glasses when using one of these simple yet amazing tools.

Bench Grinder

This is one of those classic tools that can do dozens of jobs. It earns its keep soon after purchase. A typical grinder will have a rough stone on one end and a smoother stone on the other. They’re great for removing metal. Others have wire wheels on both ends for stripping away paint and rust. Buy both kinds if you can. They come in handy quite often.

Belt Sanders

These are similar to grinders, except they are good for more precise tasks, such as shaping sheet metal or small parts.

Bandsaw

Good to have on hand for cutting aluminum and softer materials. Be sure to use fine-toothed blades meant for cutting metal metal.

Chop Saw/Circular Saw

Another tool that will slice through metal the way a kitchen knife cuts through bread. Carbide- or diamond-tipped blades will last longer, and their costs reflect that fact. There are circular saws on the market that spin slower than the ones used by woodworkers. These are acceptable alternatives.

NEVER use the high-speed table or circular saws popular with furniture builders and carpenters. They spin so fast that metal cutting blades can come apart during the job, sending ultra-sharp shrapnel flying through the air towards your head. Something like that could ruin your whole day, quick.

Vehicle Battery Charger

Excellent for – what else? – charging batteries!

Diagnostic Tools

Code Reader

A good one can be had for around $50. It’s the single best investment you can make for working on cars made after 1995. The onboard diagnostic system will tell you where the trouble lies, saving you hours of troubleshooting. By plugging one into the vehicle’s access port you can download its codes, so you’ll know what they’re trying to tell you.
Without the ability to properly diagnose what’s wrong, you’re left with no other choice but to guess, and to replace parts blindly in hopes of getting it right.

Timing Light

Here’s another item you can’t afford to be without. Most cars are timed by the number-1 cylinder. A timing light connects to both the plug wire for that cylinder and the vehicle’s battery. Pointing the light at the pulley tells you whether the timing mark on the pulley is in sync with the one on the body of the engine.

Very basic timing lights can be found, as well as ones with all sorts of bells and whistle that add nothing to the tool’s basic purpose. Get a simple, dependable one made by a reputable manufacturer. You’ll be very glad you did.

Multimeter and Continuity Tester

I hate working on vehicle electrical systems. So do most people. Nonetheless, it’s a task that can’t be avoided forever. A multimeter will make the job simpler. With one, you can check around faults, hot wires, and virtually everything electric in the vehicle. If you’ve never used one, there are plenty of videos on YouTube and other sites that will teach you the basics.

A continuity tester makes testing for electric current an easy affair. Attach the alligator clip to the end that you think has power, and then touch the metal probe to ground. If the light comes on you’ve got juice. If not, you’ve got problems that might cause a lot of aggravation to fix. See why I hate working with wiring?

Battery/Alternator Tester

You can get away with buying one of these at a discount store because they are very simple inside. Attach the leads to the poles of the battery or alternator and pull the switch. If the gauge shows 13-14 volts and holds steady then you’re in good shape. If it drops below 12 volts after 15 seconds or so then the battery or alternator needs replacing.

Spark Tester

These run under 20 bucks and are worth every penny. Stick it into a plug wire and you’ll soon know if you’re getting spark.

Compression Tester

Tearing down and rebuilding engines is a dying art, especially since crate engines have become so affordable. Nonetheless, you’ll still need to diagnose internal problems, a task that a compression tester makes easy. You’ll find kinds that screw into a spark plug hole as well as ones with rubber tips that you’ll need to hold in yourself. The thread-in ones are more time-consuming but also more accurate.

Using Compressed Air Without Breaking Your Budget

Most professional shops have large, powerful compressors and fittings placed throughout the work area where pneumatic drills and other tools can be plugged in. Learning how to create a setup like that is beyond the scope of these articles, but it is certainly within the abilities of a seasoned home mechanic who can supply the needed voltage. PVC pipe provides a fairly inexpensive material to fashion the lines from. If you go this route, be sure to use at least Schedule 40 PVC, which is rated for 289 PSI in ¾ inch pipe and 270 PSI in one inch pipe. This book gives detailed instructions on how to outfit your shop in this way.

On the other hand, a portable compressor can be had for under $500 that will meet the needs of most enthusiasts. A 15 gallon model that generates 200 PSI will reliably create 5.4 SCFM at 90 PSI, enough force to run an impact wrench, ratchet wrench, paint sprayer or air sander. Direct drive models don’t need added oil, and most folks find they run a bit quieter than belt-driven ones.

Equip your shop with the tools and testers described in this article and the one previous to it and you’ll be well prepared to handle almost any job that the home mechanic is likely to face. Of course you may want to expand your capabilities further, specifically into doing jobs that require welding skills and equipment. We’ll look at this topic in the next post.

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Building Your Own Home Workshop, Part 4: Basic Hand Tools and Supplies

January 4, 2012 / billw / No comments

by Bill Wilson

Now comes the fun part: equipping your new shop with all of the tools you’ll need to get to work. This can be either the most satisfying or most frustrating part of the experience, depending on a number of factors. The rule of thumb is to buy the best tools you can afford. Unfortunately, as I’m sure you already know, first-rate tools usually fetch first-rate prices. There are ways for the frugal mechanic to minimize his costs in this department, however. These include buying used tools, buying only what you truly need, and building your tool set over a period of time.

Websites like craigslist.org are terrific places to find bargains on auto tools, as well as hundreds of other products. Classified ads in your local newspaper are excellent places to look as well. Yard sales are hit or miss, but great deals can occasionally be found.

One source that should be approached with caution is a flea market or swap meet.
Many of the dealers at such events sell the shoddiest stuff China has to offer. Sometimes these inferior products may even have prestige names such as Snap-On printed on them.

In reality they are nothing more than junk. Sockets quickly rust, ratchets fall apart, wrenches break under stress, and unstable, three-legged jack stands made out of stamped metal bend under the weight of cars. The only thing you’ll get from using this kind of equipment is a lot of pain and possibly the loss of your life, if a car collapses on you.

One brand that has a long, distinguished reputation for good quality at reasonable prices is Craftsman. This has been my brand of choice for years and personally I’ve never had any issues with their hand tools. But, if I did, getting a replacement is as simple as carrying the broken item down to the local Sears, where they’ll happily exchange it for a brand new one, no paperwork needed, no hassles involved. I’ve even heard stories of persons who found broken Craftsman tools in junk piles and traded them in for ones right off the rack.

Most guys (and gals) who work on cars start out with the bare essentials, then add to their collection as time and money allow. So don’t feel bad if for now you’ll have to make do with just the basics; you’re not the first and you won’t be the last.

Floor Jacks

This is one item you simply have to have. Prices range from around $25 for a basic one to over $400 for a 3-ton version from a company like Snap-On. Generally, however, you should be able to find one in the $100 range that will meet your needs nicely. I just saw a decent 3-ton jack on sears.com that was on sale for $80.


A good floor jack need not cost a fortune.

Jack Stands

You’ll likely be spending a great deal of time underneath vehicles supported by these, so get the strongest, sturdiest ones you can afford. One crucial point to keep in mind is to ONLY use ones with four legs! The 3-legged ones found at flea markets or Wal-Mart tip over easily; what’s more, they’re made from cheap metal that’s notorious for giving way.

I just spotted a pair at sears.com on sale for $29.99. They have a 3 ton capacity and are built from plate steel that will hold up under pressure. Stands like those will serve you well for years.

In case you’re wondering, the answer is no, I don’t own stock in Sears.


Never compromise on quality when buying floor jacks.

Safety Goggles

You can never have too many of these. Buy a dozen pair or more, and keep them near
your drill press, grinder, or any other piece of equipment that creates metal particles. Put a pair or three in your toolbox. And wear them! You only have two eyes. Make sure they’re protected.


Safety goggles will protect your eyes from dust and metal particles.

Ear Plugs/Hearing Projection

You also have only two ears, and auto work generates a lot of noise. A buck will buy you a pair of foam plugs that will protect your hearing. You can also find sound deadening earmuffs that look like headphones. Whichever way you go, make sure your ears are covered when doing noisy work.


Ear plugs are cheap protection from hearing loss.

Face Mask/Respirator

Like eyes and ears, lungs tend to come in pairs. A disposable dust mask will keep chemicals and other pollutants from getting into them. If you plan to do serious body work or painting, it’s best to go ahead and buy a respirator from a paint shop or auto parts store.


Face masks let you breathe easy.

First Aid Kit

This is an item folks tend to skimp on, unfortunately. Those $5 – $10 kits in discount stores might be fine for office workers, but you should have something more serious on hand. Around $75 will get you a kit with the same supplies that paramedics and other emergency responders use, such as burn gels and larger bandages. A great web site for these is beprepared.com.


Don’t skimp on your shop’s first aid kit.

Gloves

There are a number of toxic chemicals in every auto shop, from plain old gasoline to solvents poisonous enough to kill a dozen men. Protect yourself from contact with these dangerous substances by wearing gloves. Your choices range from cheap latex ones for less than five bucks to quality nitrile pairs for around $20, maybe a bit less if you look around.

$25 – $30 will get you a pair of professional mechanic’s gloves. These were designed with input from NASCAR techs that have to work quickly around extremely hot engine components and other parts. They offer a good degree of burn protection and are generally worth the cost.


Good gloves will protect your hands from burns as well as chemicals.

Toolboxes

You’ll want at least two of these. One will be the main chest that holds the bulk of your hand tools, including specialized ones that you’ll only use occasionally. The other will be a smaller, portable one that you can carry with you; it will hold the basics, such as wrenches, a socket set, electronic testing equipment, etc. Buy the best ones you can,
and keep in mind that tools are among the most frequently stolen items on the planet. Get boxes with decent locks.


Get the best toolboxes you can.

Wrenches

You’ll want to have two or more of these in each standard size. It’s common to find a ½ inch nut on a ½ inch bolt, and you’ll need a separate wrench to hold each. Adjustable wrenches in a variety of sizes are important to have as well.

The newer ratcheting wrenches can be pricey, but they’re worth every penny, especially when working in tight spaces. Get a set, even if you have to buy them one at a time. Your wrist will thank you.


Wrenches are a must have in any shop.

Pliers

Standard slip joint pliers are a must to have around. Again, this is a tool that people sometimes skimp on. Don’t. Absolutely nothing is worse than a shoddy pair that slides out of joint when you’re working.

Besides the standard pliers, you’ll also want a pair of needle-nose, linesman, and plumbing (also known as Channel Locks) pliers. Get some diagonal cutters and wire strippers too, as well as locking pliers, also known as Vise Grips. And please don’t use pliers in place of wrenches, unless you enjoy trying to turn rounded-off bolts at weird angles.


Get a variety of pliers for different jobs.

Screwdrivers

Flathead, Phillips head, star, Allen, hex – whatever types of screws you’re likely to face, you’ll need a way to loosen and tighten them. And, even though you shouldn’t, you and I both know that you’re eventually going to use one to open a can of paint, as a chisel, or in some other way that may damage the tool. So get some cheap ones just for these purposes.


Good screwdrivers should only be used for tightening and loosening screws.

Socket Sets/Ratchets

You’ll want two sets of these, an extensive one for your main tool box and a smaller one for your portable tool chest. Get ones in all the standard drive sizes: ¼, 3/8, and ½ inch.
Six sided sockets offer more torque than their twelve-sided cousins, but are harder to work with. Make certain you get both regular and deep well sockets; little can be accomplished without both.


You won’t be doing much mechanical work without ratchets and sockets.

Torque Wrenches

Simply put, a torque wrench is one with some sort of meter on it that tells you how much force is being applied. All real mechanics need one of these.

A torque wrench removes the guesswork from tightening bolts and nuts.

As a young adult, when changing tires I never knew how much pressure to apply when replacing the nuts, so I would just stand on the lug wrench. That worked okay until I snapped a couple of bolts and had to spend some serious cash at the local machine shop.

Learn from my stupidity; get a torque wrench. The most common ones are the clicking type. You twist the handle to the setting you want, and then start tightening. When you hear a click you’ve applied the proper amount of force.

Other Stuff You’ll Need

An extractor is essential to removing bolts and screws that have broken off. These are fantastic tools, but don’t expect them to work miracles. They have been known to break off inside of the part, making the situation worse than it was before.

In college I was trying to bleed my brakes once when I noticed that one of the calipers had a broken bleeder stem. I tried and tried to drill it out, only to destroy one bit after the other. It turned out that the previous owner had tried using an extractor to remove part of the stem, only to break it off inside the caliper. Removing it required destroying three metal chisels.

Learn from my misfortune. Always use the largest extractor head possible. Tap it in place. Drill out as much of the old bolt as you can first. And be sure you know of a good machine shop, in case you need it.

A tap and die set, a Riv-Nutter, an assortment of cheaters bars for your ratchets, and an extension tool with a magnet on the end to retrieve dropped screws will round out the list of basic hand tools you’ll need. Next time we turn our attention to ones that require electricity. See you then.

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Building Your Own Home Workshop, Part Three: Storage

January 3, 2012 / billw / No comments

by Bill Wilson

Okay, so you’ve gotten the permits, built or remodeled the structure that will house your shop, and you’re looking at that big (or not so big), empty space, wondering what to put in it.

Well, first things first. Before you bring in the tools or your first project vehicle, you need a place to put all of the equipment and supplies you’ll need. And that means having a storage system. For maximum efficiency and safety, you’ll want it located against the walls, leaving the center of the shop open and unrestricted as much as possible.

Storage Options: the Bad

Unfortunately, there are plenty of less than wonderful options out there for creating storage. Department stores and discount centers typically carry shelving units made of thin metal, particle board or injection molded plastics.

While these products may work fine for a homemaker looking for a place to put her washing powder and cleaning products, they’re much too fragile for workshop use. Try putting a 4-barrel carb or bellwether housing on one and more likely than not it will come crashing down, possibly on top of you.

Storage Options: the Good – and Sometimes the Ugly

The choices available for strong, sturdy shelving are many. The simplest – and most expensive – choice is to buy stainless steel racks like the ones used by butchers. You can find these at home improvement stores like Home Depot, or at warehouse outlets such as Sam’s Club. They hold a decent amount of weight and can be cleaned simply by hosing them down, making them popular with restaurants and other food prep businesses.

Racks like these are good looking, strong and easily cleaned; they’re also pricey

If your budget doesn’t permit this kind of expense or if you will be storing whole engines or transmissions and need shelves that will hold serious weight, then don’t worry. Cheap, durable shelves and storage boxes can be built from standard dimensional lumber found at any lumber yard. To make the units even stronger, you can reinforce them with angle iron, which can be bought very cheaply at your local metal scrap yard.

Simple dimensional lumber can be used to make perfectly usable shelves

Plans to build this kind of storage are all over the Internet, as well as in woodworking publications.

The bottom line is that your choices for shelving are limited only by your imagination.
Perfectly good storage units have been made from shipping crates, planks lying across masonry blocks, old gym lockers, heavy duty metal filing cabinets, and even kitchen cabinets reclaimed from condemned houses. So long as it is sound, sturdy, and leaves plenty of room in the center of the shop for work to take place, then appearance matters little.

One more thing – add as much storage space as you can, more than you think you will need. You can never have enough.

Bins

In addition to shelves, you’ll need smaller bins for screws, clips, washers and various other fasteners. Your options range from the units sold in auto parts and home improvement stores to coffee cans, empty mayonnaise or food jars that have been washed out, or any small, sturdy container that can be labeled and easily accessed.
Check home handyman websites and magazines for simple yet clever ways to make these kinds of projects. This site is a great resource for plans and ideas.

 In this example peanut butter jars do double duty as parts bins

Once you’ve got your storage system in place, next comes the fun part: deciding what tools you’ll need to get started. We’ll look at that next time.

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PERFORMANCEPARTS.COM CONTINUES SPONSORSHIP WITH THE CONTINGENCY CONNECTION FOR 2012

January 3, 2012 / billw / No comments

PerformanceParts.com is a proud sponsor of the Contingency Connection for 2012. We continue supporting the company that allows us to get our name where it needs to be, reaching a large volume of racers and fans at various tracks throughout the country. PerformanceParts.com is able to market “at the track with our customers,” and stay linked directly to engine builders and machine shops, thanks to the exposure provided by the Contingency Connection. PerformanceParts.com looks forward to participating in the race marketing program, as well as the engine builder program, and we look forward to another great year with the Contingency Connection!

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PERFORMANCEPARTS.COM NOW SUPPLYING GM PERFORMANCE CRATE ENGINES

January 3, 2012 / billw / No comments

PerformanceParts.com is excited to announce the availability of high-tech GM Performance Crate Engines. These engines are produced by GM Performance Parts, the leaders in performance crate engines, and are now available to our customers across the United States and Canada, as well as internationally through Bongo International. The future looks bright for GM Performance Parts, and PerformanceParts.com is proud to be a part of that future.

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Creating Your Own Home Workshop

December 28, 2011 / billw / No comments

by Bill Wilson

Part Two: Paperwork and Other Preparations

Last time we looked at basic safety concerns that apply to any shop. This time we’re going to look at what you need to keep in mind when deciding what kind of building your shop will be housed in.

Legal Concerns

You may live out in the boondocks, where folks are free to do whatever they like with their property. Or you might be in a subdivision with tons of rules and restrictions on what you can get away with. Or your situation might lie in between these two extremes. Whatever the case, you’ll need to comply with the laws in your area.

Find out what the local building codes say about workshops. Even if you have a garage attached to your home, there might be rules about what kind of chemicals, tools and supplies can be kept in it. If you plan to use an existing structure, there could be guidelines you’ll need to follow about what kind of building is permissible, or what sort of modifications can be made to it. Check with your city or county officials to find out how this works in your area.

Don’t forget about insurance. Your homeowner’s coverage may extend to outbuildings such as workshops and storage sheds. Or it may not. Check with your agent. It’s very likely that an official inspection of the site may be necessary before the company agrees to cover you. If so, find out what the inspector will be looking for and make sure everything is up to snuff. You don’t want an extension cord running from your kitchen window, through the grass and to the building; that will look really, really bad. Of course I’ve done it in the past, but let’s not discuss that.

To Build or Not to Build

You may be fortunate enough to have a garage attached to your home that can be converted into your workshop. If so, count yourself lucky. A standard two car garage will have plenty of room for the tools and supplies you’ll need, even if a vehicle is parked there most of the time. You’ll also have ready access to electricity, running water and a restroom, provided you’re careful not to track oil, mud or grease into the home and anger your spouse. Single men and women need not worry about such things.

400 square feet is usually sufficient for a basic, no-frills shop that will hold only one vehicle at a time. The rule of thumb is simply to make your shop as big as you can afford. You can never have too much elbow room when working on vehicles.

You can also rent a building, which is usually beyond the means of the average enthusiast, or you can build one. The quickest and least costly solution is to visit a dealer that sells prefabricated metal or wooden structures and select one that will meet your needs.

Make certain that the structure can accommodate a concrete floor. The dealer may be able to pour the floor for you, or you can contract it out to a construction firm. As mentioned in the prior post, a concrete floor with a minimum five inch thickness and reinforced with steel is essential if you plan to have a lift installed.

Metal buildings are sturdy and relatively fireproof. On the other hand, wooden ones often look better and will allow you to easily insulate and finish out the interior walls.
A wooden floor should be avoided if at all possible, though. Unless built extremely well, they can rarely withstand the weight of vehicles for a sustained period of time. Also, they tend to soak up oil and other spills, making them very difficult to keep clean. You can also forget about ever installing a lift.

Once you’ve decided on your building, you’ll want to plan for basic utilities such as electricity and plumbing.

Turning on the Power

You may already have electricity running to the building you plan to use for your shop. If so, and if the setup can pass a safety inspection, then you’re in great shape, especially if it has 240-volt circuits for things like a compressor, a lift, or welding equipment.

If not, then you have an opportunity to customize the wiring layout to match your needs. In either event, there are several things to keep in mind.

First, you will need as large a breaker panel as possible. Auto shops use tons of juice, and the more circuits you have the better. If you’re adding electric to a building without it, then having a separate utility account and power meter usually makes good sense. It will allow you to keep track of how much electricity your workplace consumes by itself, apart from your home.

For new setups, draw on paper or in a software program the spots on the walls where you want electrical outlets, both 120 and 240 volt. Plan to keep stationary tools next to the walls where they can easily be plugged in. Show this plan to your electrician and he’ll take it from there.

Staying Warm and Keeping Your Cool

Unless you live in an area with very mild winter temperatures, you’ll need to some way to warm your shop. Electric heating is safe and effective, but generally too expensive to be a serious option. A possible exception is an electrical system that only kicks in when the temperature approaches 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 Celsius). This will prevent water or other liquids from freezing over. Halogen or incandescent bulbs will often accomplish the same thing when left on overnight.

A small propane bottle with a radiator screwed in the top often suffices, if all you want is localized heat nearby when working. For greater comfort, however, larger propane heaters or oil burners are good choices, although running them can get expensive. Portable electric heaters can be used as well.

Ceiling mounted electric heaters will serve both to create heat as well as to circulate air, though this option can be pricey over time. Get the most energy efficient units you can afford if you choose to go this route. Local vendors or your electric company may be able to help by giving you estimates of operating costs.

Summer heat can affect you as well, particularly in southern states. Heat exhaustion and heat stroke are serious issues that require due caution. In most cases electric fans offer sufficient cooling at a low price. Window mounted air conditioning units are another option, although, as with electric heating, cost must be considered.

Compressed Air

Next to electricity, this is perhaps the most useful component of a good shop.
Pressurized air can drive tools, inflate tires, clean parts, and do many other useful things. Get the largest, most powerful compressor you can afford. No one ever complains about having too much pressurized air, but a common regret is not having enough to do the work at hand.

Plumbing

Running water isn’t absolutely essential for a shop, but it sure makes things easier.
With a water line you can set up sinks to wash your hands or auto parts in. You can run a hose or pressure cleaner to blast gunk and grime off of the floor. And, with a septic line included, you can have a full bathroom at hand.

You might want a dedicated water heater for the shop, especially if its plumbing isn’t tied in with the lines for your home. Hot water is nice to have, and it often makes parts cleaning more effective.

Regarding parts cleaning, an old dishwasher can often be bought for under fifty dollars, and is a great way to subject dirty components to a good, hard scrubbing. And while you’re planning for water drainage, don’t forget your floor. Have a drain built into the concrete it at all possible, and have the floor slope towards it on all sides. A good plumber can handle the job, or you can if you have the knowledge, the tools and the willingness to endure the sore muscles and the dirt that come with the job.

Okay! We’ve covered the basics of housing your shop. We’ve touched on legal and insurance concerns. We’ve discussed what kind of building is needed. And we’ve outlined the essential utilities you’ll need such as electricity. Next time we’ll take a look at the tools and supplies you’ll need to get up and running. In the meantime, visit our main web site for all your parts needs.

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Creating your own Auto Workshop on a Budget

December 28, 2011 / billw / No comments

by Bill Wilson

Part One: Planning

You’ve decided it’s time you had a proper shop to do your automotive work in. Congratulations! Having a space or entire building devoted entirely to working on cars or trucks is a wise move, even if your mechanical ambitions are driven more by passion than by profit. While there’s a great tradition in being a “shade tree” auto technician, there’s only so much you can do in the driveway or backyard.

Having a dedicated workshop offers several advantages. The first is climate control. If you’ve ever changed oil or replaced brake pads in the dead of winter or the stifling heat of August then you know what I mean. A properly designed shop will allow you to do essential tasks even when there are three feet of snow on the ground. And when the summer temperatures climb into the 90s you’ll be glad for a space where you can install air conditioning, or at least have a fan blowing cool air on you at all times. Rain, sleet, hail and other precipitation won’t stand in your way either.

You’ll also be able to work safer. Back in the day, I worked on vehicles parked on gravel or just plain dirt. Looking back on that, I wonder how I survived. Even on hard packed surfaces, the weight of vehicles will make jack stands and ramps sink into the ground, compromising your safety. In contrast, a shop offers the solid support of concrete, or at the very least wood.

Having your own shop also allows you to have your tools out of the elements and within easy reach. Even if you only perform routine maintenance, such as oil changes and tune-ups, having a roof over your head and a sturdy floor beneath your feet will enable you to work faster and safer, with more satisfying results. Plus, you’ll be able to keep not only tools but parts and supplies neatly stored and easily accessible, as opposed to trotting across the yard every five minutes to your house or to a storage building for a bolt or for a bottle of transmission fluid.

Of course, like any project, creating your own shop requires planning in order to be a success. Here are some things you’ll want to keep in mind during the process.

Safety

This comes first. After all, you can’t work on cars when you’re dead. Yet every year people are tragically killed in their own shops, due to vehicles falling, electrocution, or tool-related accidents. Don’t become one of them. Plan for safety.
One thing you’ll want to have on hand is a five or ten pound fire extinguisher.
Make certain it can put out flames caused by chemicals such as gasoline. Look for the ABC designation on the casing. If it’s within your budget, look at getting a fire suppression system, such as overhead sprinklers. They start for under a thousand bucks.

You’ll also need a smoke detector. Battery ones are fine so long as you keep fresh cells in it. If you can afford one, a hard wired detector offers more convenience.
A carbon monoxide detector is also essential. Both auto exhausts as well as flame-based heaters give off fumes that can kill you

Ventilation

Gas, paint and cleaning solutions can affect your judgment or simply poison your lungs. Guard against this by making sure that your shop has good air flow. A ventilation fan built into the structure itself is a great solution, but simply having industrial fans plugged into outlets and blowing constantly works fine as well.

Working Space

In an ideal world, every automotive enthusiast would have a giant building with tons of space for the latest tools, as well as multiple vehicles, three or four lifts, and an office/break room equipped with comfortable chairs, a TV and a fridge stocked with snacks.

But, as you well know, the world is far from ideal. You may find that the only area available to you does double or triple duty, as a spot to keep the lawnmower or weed eater out of the rain, to store Christmas decorations, or to house the family washer and dryer. So be it; in most cases you can still make do. The key is careful planning.

The first thing you’ll need is a measuring tape. Don’t rely on an eyeball estimate of the dimensions; measure them carefully. Be sure to include the space from floor to ceiling, especially if you plan to include a lift, which will require at least 12 feet of clearance, preferably 16 or more. Keep in mind as well that a lift requires a concrete floor that is at least 5 or 6 inches thick and is reinforced with steel.

Once you have accurate measurements, you’ll need to figure out how much room you’ll need for your tools, as well as parts and supplies and of course a vehicle or two. That gets into the subject of planning your shop’s layout, which we’ll look at next time. In the meantime, consider buying a copy of the best-selling book “How to Design, Build and Equip Your Automotive Workshop on a Budget.” Order it from our website by going here.

 

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From 30 Miles an Hour to 300 and More: the Story of the Holley Company

December 27, 2011 / billw / No comments

by Bill Wilson

30 miles an hour top speed may not sound too impressive, but when George Holley built his 3-wheeled car in 1897, it was almost unbelievable that a gas-powered vehicle could travel that fast. His achievement was only the beginning for a company that has since built hundreds of millions of carburetors and other fuel system parts for customers ranging from the US military to NASCAR race teams. Along the way the Holley Company has been guided by its commitment to quality and its passion for innovation.

Company founder George Holley was 19 when he graduated from the Stevens Preparatory School in New Jersey in 1897. An ardent self-learner, he was fascinated by the possibilities that the internal combustion engine offered for travel, commerce and progress. With the 20th century just around the corner, he decided that he would become part of the then-infant automobile industry.

He started right after graduation by drawing up plans for a 3-wheeled vehicle he would build himself. He spent some time studying how to make patterns, then went to a foundry to learn how to make his own castings. Financial backing came from J.E. Cochran, president and general manager of the Bovaird and Seyfang Manufacturing Company in Bradford, PA.

George ultimately built a 3-wheeled vehicle that ran on a single-cylinder engine, a transmission with two forward speeds but no reverse, and a lever to steer with. It weighed 306 pounds and had a 60 inch wheelbase. Here’s a picture of it, with him sitting in the driver’s seat:

George Holley’s 3-wheeled car

George’s two young daughters enjoyed going for rides with their dad on his hand-built machine. They frequently went for trips around the city of East Bradford, PA, where they lived. Just to be safe, though, he only drove alongside the city’s trolley car routes when the girls were with him. He made sure that each of them always carried a nickel with her, so in case the mini-vehicle broke down they could catch a ride home on the trolley.

Along with his brother, George founded the Holley Motor Company in 1903. They built and sold three- and four-wheeled cars as well as motorized bicycles. Early in the company’s history, the pair made a fateful decision. Instead of building complete vehicles, they would focus on fuel systems. One of their first customers was Henry Ford, who bought their products for his own line of cars, including the one he introduced in 1908 that would change the world forever: the Model T. Ford eventually sold almost 16 million of these iconic vehicles in the US alone. Many of them had a Holley carburetor on board.

World War 2 saw vast new markets open up for Holley, as orders poured in from defense contractors across the nation. Holley supplied millions of carburetors from 1941 to 1945, not just for cars, but for planes and amphibious landing craft as well.
Their famous craftsmanship and rugged reliability helped ensure Allied victory.

After peace returned, the Holley Company stayed busy building fuel system components for Detroit’s Big Three, which were working overtime to supply autos for car-hungry veterans and their families. The 1950s and 60s saw major advances in automotive technology, with the ground-breaking Holley Model 4150 4 barrel carb premiering on the 1957 T-bird. The era of the classic muscle cars saw the company building fuel systems for such legendary vehicles as the Camaro, the Chevelle, the Mustang, and the Corvette.

As racing grew in popularity Holley was right there, supplying drivers and mechanics with cutting-edge components. The famous Dominator carb was released in 1968, designed specifically for NASCAR vehicles. In the 70s drag racers eagerly adopted Holley’s new electric fuel pumps, beginning an era of dominance for the firm in drag racing circles that continues to this day.

In the 2000s the company is building world class electronic fuel systems in addition to their trademark carburetors and fuel pumps. Recently Hot Rod Magazine inducted several Holley parts into its Speed Parts Hall of Fame, a fitting tribute to a company that is still the leader in fuel systems technology over 100 years since its founding.

As the 21st century unfolds Holley will undoubtedly be at the head of the pack, delivering top of the line parts that set the standard for quality, reliability and overall excellence. And it all started in 1897 with three wheels, 30 miles an hour, and a commitment to being the best. George Holley would be proud.

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The Story of NASCAR

December 21, 2011 / billw / No comments

by Bill Wilson

In 1935 auto mechanic William France, Sr. moved to Daytona Beach, Florida from Washington D.C. A tough, determined survivor by nature, France had withstood the worst that the Great Depression could throw at him. His move to the Sunshine State was driven by two things: his desire to build a better life for himself and his family, and his passion for racing.

Those twin themes, racing and family, would remain with France the rest of his life, and eventually become bedrock values of the organization he founded in 1948: The National Association for Stock Car Racing, better known as NASCAR.

William France, Sr.

Stock Car Racing: the Early Years

On January 17, 1920 the 18th Amendment to the US Constitution went into effect, making it illegal to sell alcoholic beverages anywhere within the country. The law’s passage did nothing to weaken the nation’s thirst for booze, however, and in very little time moonshiners and other manufacturers of spirits were running thriving businesses brewing and selling their own fermented concoctions.

The Appalachian Mountains were a hotbed of this underground industry, with stills both big and small operating in the hills and hollows of the region. Law enforcement was determined to stop the illegal trade, and concentrated its efforts on both busting up the stills as well as intercepting the vehicles that carried the whiskey they produced.

Needless to say, the drivers of those vehicles were reluctant to give up their lucrative enterprise, and they began to modify their cars and trucks to give them an edge when evading the police. Technically speaking, they were taking “stock” automobiles (ones that were essentially the same as when they left the factory) and customizing them to their special needs. Increasing engine power and beefing up suspension were common modifications.

Many of these drivers fell in love with the twisting, high speed style of driving they perfected while racing down mountain roads. After alcohol sales became legal again in 1933, they applied these skills to the growing sport of auto racing. A number of them moved to Daytona Beach, Florida, which had become known as the best site in the world for setting speed records. Soon a number of race tracks popped up in the area, and enthusiasm for the sport spread like wildfire across the southern United States, especially after Word War 2 ended.

The Need for Some Law and Order

Unfortunately, some of the promoters who sponsored these early races were dishonest. Many of them would skip town right after a race with the money from ticket sales, including the portion they had promised to pay the drivers and track workers. William France was disgusted by these sleazy practices, and decided that, if the sport were to grow, it would need a governing body to ensure that drivers were treated fairly and that safety standards were enforced.

In December of 1947 he got together with prominent promoters and racers in the Daytona Beach area to discuss his ideas. On February 21, 1948 they formed NASCAR at a bar in the Streamline Hotel. The organization’s first commissioner was Erwin “Cannonball” Baker, who had competed in the Indianapolis 500 and had set over 100 land speed records.

Official racing seasons were soon set up. The winner of the first one in 1947 won a trophy and $1,000.00 in cash. In contrast, the winner of the 2011 Sprint Series, Tony Stewart, was awarded $341,258.00.

NASCAR Today

The organization that started with William France and a handful of friends in 1948 today sponsors over 1500 races at more than 100 tracks in 39 states and Canada. NASCAR has also held events in nations such as Mexico, Australia and Japan.

NASCAR fans total in excess of 75 million worldwide. They attend sponsored races whenever possible and purchase over $3 billion in related merchandise annually.
In addition, NASCAR sponsored races are seen on television in 150 countries across the globe. In fact, NASCAR events are the most popular sporting events on TV except for professional football.

Headquarters for the association are in Daytona Beach, but corporate offices exist in New York City, Los Angeles, Bentonville, Arkansas, Toronto, and Mexico City. The organization has close ties with many Fortune 500 companies, a number of which sponsor NASCAR racing teams.

NASCAR Logo

Charity and Educational Work

NASCAR officially supports 36 charitable foundations, which support such worthy causes as cancer research, literacy programs, wildlife and forest preservation, college scholarships, and campaigns to end child abuse and to promote the kind treatment of animals.

In addition, NASCAR affiliated speedways raise millions of dollars for a wide number of charities. For example, the raceway located in Bristol, TN holds an annual event during the holiday season where everyday people are allowed to drive their cars on the circular track, which is decorated with bright lights and Christmas-themed displays. This effort alone raises in excess of $600,000.00 every year for groups that feed, clothe and educate children in need. Additional charitable causes that benefit from NASCAR’s generosity include local theatres, museums and other fine arts venues.

NASCAR charities help many sick and underprivileged children

It’s All about Family

Given that William France was a family man through and through, it’s only appropriate that the current NASCAR CEO is his grandson Brian France.  After more than six decades, the organization is still true to the values upon which it was founded: a passion for racing, a commitment to basic values like honesty and fairness, and a desire to make communities, nations and the world better places to live.

 

 

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