by Bill Wilson
Part Two: Paperwork and Other Preparations
Last time we looked at basic safety concerns that apply to any shop. This time we’re going to look at what you need to keep in mind when deciding what kind of building your shop will be housed in.
Legal Concerns
You may live out in the boondocks, where folks are free to do whatever they like with their property. Or you might be in a subdivision with tons of rules and restrictions on what you can get away with. Or your situation might lie in between these two extremes. Whatever the case, you’ll need to comply with the laws in your area.
Find out what the local building codes say about workshops. Even if you have a garage attached to your home, there might be rules about what kind of chemicals, tools and supplies can be kept in it. If you plan to use an existing structure, there could be guidelines you’ll need to follow about what kind of building is permissible, or what sort of modifications can be made to it. Check with your city or county officials to find out how this works in your area.
Don’t forget about insurance. Your homeowner’s coverage may extend to outbuildings such as workshops and storage sheds. Or it may not. Check with your agent. It’s very likely that an official inspection of the site may be necessary before the company agrees to cover you. If so, find out what the inspector will be looking for and make sure everything is up to snuff. You don’t want an extension cord running from your kitchen window, through the grass and to the building; that will look really, really bad. Of course I’ve done it in the past, but let’s not discuss that.
To Build or Not to Build
You may be fortunate enough to have a garage attached to your home that can be converted into your workshop. If so, count yourself lucky. A standard two car garage will have plenty of room for the tools and supplies you’ll need, even if a vehicle is parked there most of the time. You’ll also have ready access to electricity, running water and a restroom, provided you’re careful not to track oil, mud or grease into the home and anger your spouse. Single men and women need not worry about such things.
400 square feet is usually sufficient for a basic, no-frills shop that will hold only one vehicle at a time. The rule of thumb is simply to make your shop as big as you can afford. You can never have too much elbow room when working on vehicles.
You can also rent a building, which is usually beyond the means of the average enthusiast, or you can build one. The quickest and least costly solution is to visit a dealer that sells prefabricated metal or wooden structures and select one that will meet your needs.
Make certain that the structure can accommodate a concrete floor. The dealer may be able to pour the floor for you, or you can contract it out to a construction firm. As mentioned in the prior post, a concrete floor with a minimum five inch thickness and reinforced with steel is essential if you plan to have a lift installed.
Metal buildings are sturdy and relatively fireproof. On the other hand, wooden ones often look better and will allow you to easily insulate and finish out the interior walls.
A wooden floor should be avoided if at all possible, though. Unless built extremely well, they can rarely withstand the weight of vehicles for a sustained period of time. Also, they tend to soak up oil and other spills, making them very difficult to keep clean. You can also forget about ever installing a lift.
Once you’ve decided on your building, you’ll want to plan for basic utilities such as electricity and plumbing.
Turning on the Power
You may already have electricity running to the building you plan to use for your shop. If so, and if the setup can pass a safety inspection, then you’re in great shape, especially if it has 240-volt circuits for things like a compressor, a lift, or welding equipment.
If not, then you have an opportunity to customize the wiring layout to match your needs. In either event, there are several things to keep in mind.
First, you will need as large a breaker panel as possible. Auto shops use tons of juice, and the more circuits you have the better. If you’re adding electric to a building without it, then having a separate utility account and power meter usually makes good sense. It will allow you to keep track of how much electricity your workplace consumes by itself, apart from your home.
For new setups, draw on paper or in a software program the spots on the walls where you want electrical outlets, both 120 and 240 volt. Plan to keep stationary tools next to the walls where they can easily be plugged in. Show this plan to your electrician and he’ll take it from there.
Staying Warm and Keeping Your Cool
Unless you live in an area with very mild winter temperatures, you’ll need to some way to warm your shop. Electric heating is safe and effective, but generally too expensive to be a serious option. A possible exception is an electrical system that only kicks in when the temperature approaches 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 Celsius). This will prevent water or other liquids from freezing over. Halogen or incandescent bulbs will often accomplish the same thing when left on overnight.
A small propane bottle with a radiator screwed in the top often suffices, if all you want is localized heat nearby when working. For greater comfort, however, larger propane heaters or oil burners are good choices, although running them can get expensive. Portable electric heaters can be used as well.
Ceiling mounted electric heaters will serve both to create heat as well as to circulate air, though this option can be pricey over time. Get the most energy efficient units you can afford if you choose to go this route. Local vendors or your electric company may be able to help by giving you estimates of operating costs.
Summer heat can affect you as well, particularly in southern states. Heat exhaustion and heat stroke are serious issues that require due caution. In most cases electric fans offer sufficient cooling at a low price. Window mounted air conditioning units are another option, although, as with electric heating, cost must be considered.
Compressed Air
Next to electricity, this is perhaps the most useful component of a good shop.
Pressurized air can drive tools, inflate tires, clean parts, and do many other useful things. Get the largest, most powerful compressor you can afford. No one ever complains about having too much pressurized air, but a common regret is not having enough to do the work at hand.
Plumbing
Running water isn’t absolutely essential for a shop, but it sure makes things easier.
With a water line you can set up sinks to wash your hands or auto parts in. You can run a hose or pressure cleaner to blast gunk and grime off of the floor. And, with a septic line included, you can have a full bathroom at hand.
You might want a dedicated water heater for the shop, especially if its plumbing isn’t tied in with the lines for your home. Hot water is nice to have, and it often makes parts cleaning more effective.
Regarding parts cleaning, an old dishwasher can often be bought for under fifty dollars, and is a great way to subject dirty components to a good, hard scrubbing. And while you’re planning for water drainage, don’t forget your floor. Have a drain built into the concrete it at all possible, and have the floor slope towards it on all sides. A good plumber can handle the job, or you can if you have the knowledge, the tools and the willingness to endure the sore muscles and the dirt that come with the job.
Okay! We’ve covered the basics of housing your shop. We’ve touched on legal and insurance concerns. We’ve discussed what kind of building is needed. And we’ve outlined the essential utilities you’ll need such as electricity. Next time we’ll take a look at the tools and supplies you’ll need to get up and running. In the meantime, visit our main web site for all your parts needs.
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