Tag Archive for performance parts

Royal Purple Oil – the King of Lubricants


Royal Purple High Performance Synthetic Street Motor Oil
• Premium wear protection
• Boosts horsepower and torque
• Cuts deposits for a cleaner engine
• Excellent for performance, modified and high mileage vehicles

Royal Purple HPS is an ideal full synthetic oil for your vehicle. Its zinc/phosphate anti-wear additives fight the heat and friction that causes engine wear. Royal Purple’s proprietary Synerlec additive reduces engine deposits and corrosion, keeping bearings and other surfaces clean and smooth. Its excellent oxidation stability makes it an outstanding choice for both gas and diesel engines. Count on Royal Purple HPS synthetic oil to safeguard your engine’s components, giving you the edge you need to drive longer and with maximum results.

Available viscosities: 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50

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Fel-Pro Head Gasket – Part # 1003

Fel-Pro performance head gaskets feature a PermaTorque/blue gasket body with a solid-steel core to minimize torque loss and gasket blowout. Fel-Pro performance head gaskets also have a wire-ring combustion seat with stainless steel “armor” for extra sealing force around combustion chambers. Made with a pre-flattened steel-wire ring, Fel-Pro performance head gaskets have the strength of steel-wire sealing and the minimum brinelling of aluminum heads.

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Rapid Fire Downpipes from Bully Dog

Bully Dog 181014 Turbo Downpipe, Steel, Aluminized, 3 in. Diameter, Ford, 7.3L, Diesel

These Rapid Flow downpipes from Bully Dog are the perfect addition to your diesel’s exhaust system. They feature a larger diameter than your stock downpipes, improving the flow of your exhaust.

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Air Lift 1000 Rear Kit – Part # 60823

Max capacity: 1,000 pounds
Minimum pressure: 5 psi
Maximum pressure: 35 psi
No drilling required, 1 hour installation

The stiff steel springs in the factory suspension of your vehicle must be a compromise between a comfortable ride and load capacity. An Air Lift air spring system is adjustable and this means you can tune your suspension to suit all load and road conditions. Just add some air when towing or hauling a heavy load, and remove some air for a softer ride when unloaded. The “Air Lift 1000″ kit fits open coil springs on the front of a wide variety of vehicle applications and will eliminate sag, sway, and bottoming out. It is made of the most rugged and durable components on the market and can be installed easily with just basic hand tools. Check it out by clicking here.

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Flowtech 11500FLT Standard length exhaust headers


Fits 1966-1991, Chevrolet and GMC pick-ups, Blazer, Jimmy, Suburban with small block V8

If you are doing a custom exhaust installation and you will not compromise on quality, choose FlowTech. Their standard length exhaust headers feature tuned length mandrel bent 16 gauge primary tubes for maximum street performance. The ports are sealed with sturdy leak tested O rings. They are engineered for a precision fit and an easy, trouble free installation. All of FlowTech’s products are made right here in the good old USA and gaskets and mounting hardware are included.

Primary tube size: 1.5″, Collector size: 3″
Black high temp paint

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Competition Engineering C2600 3-Way Adjustable Front Drag Shock


Competition Engineering’s 3-Way adjustable drag shocks give you the ability to dial in your race car to keep up with changing track conditions. Competition Engineering’s shocks allow the front end to rise quickly at launch to aid in weight transfer to the rear tires for better traction. Then the front of the vehicle will rebound slowly as the car travels down the track so as to not unload the rear tires during the transition. Both front and rear shocks are adjustable in three ratios by compressing the shock fully, and rotating the shaft until the indexing notch matches the desired setting on the body. A simple twist and click is all it takes.

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Stainless Steel Brakes Drum to Disk Conversion Kits


Built In Parking Brake Added Safety/Street Legal
• Standard Off The Shelf Pads For Easy Replacement
• Vented Rotors Help Prevent Warping
• Turbo Slotting Helps Keep Pads Clean
• Xtra Life Plating Keeps Rotors Looking New

Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation (SSBC) first pioneered the stainless steel sleeved caliper for classic Corvette and Mustangs back in 1975. They are the industry standard for high quality brake systems and components, offering a complete line of disc brake conversions and performance brake upgrades for classic muscle cars, late model performance vehicles, street rods and customs, trucks/SUVs and sport compacts. When you buy a Stainless Steel Brakes product, you’re getting the best that money
can buy, period. Order yours today.

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GM Crate Engines Can Bring New Life to an Old Vehicle

You have a car or truck that has seen its better days. When it was younger you drove it everywhere. Trusty and reliable, it never let you down. You came to love it. But now it’s belching smoke from the exhaust, it barely starts, and you wouldn’t drive it around the block.

Don’t send it off to the junkyard, and don’t let it turn to rust in your barn. Bring it back to life with one of our GM Performance Parts crate engines. They’re built to last as long as the OEM motor, and made with all new parts to precise tolerances by master mechanics.

So don’t say a tearful goodbye to your old friend. Bring it back to life with a quality crate engine from PerformanceParts.com. You can find the one you need by going here.

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Stainless Steel Cross Drilled Rotor – Part # 23900AA2R

Now you can enjoy a degree of braking power and control like you’ve never known before. Stainless Steel Slotted and Cross Drilled Rotors offer these fantastic benefits:

*Gas and dust are vented away from the brakes. This prevents the dangerous problem of “cake-over” that can form a film on pad and rotor surfaces, making them slippery and reducing their effectiveness
*Heat is dispelled much quicker than with traditional rotors. This feature guards against burning and warping
*Brake pads make much better contact with the rotor surface, allowing you to stop quicker than with the competition’s components

The Stainless Steel Brake Company is the gold standard for superior quality brake products. For nearly 40 years they have led the way in developing cutting edge parts that give performance drivers greater control over their vehicles, keeping them and their treasured rides safe from harm. Order yours today.

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Build your Own Home Workshop, Part 6: Welding

by Bill Wilson

Welding is a handy skill to have, not just for working on cars and trucks but also for doing general repairs around your home or for friends and neighbors. In this installment we’re going to cover the fundamentals that you need to know to set up a safe, simple and effective welding station with which you can do basic welds.

This article is intended as a high-level introduction to the subject, not as an in-depth tutorial. If you’ve never welded before and you want to pursue this subject further, there are plenty of more advanced learning resources available, from books and videos to classes offered at tech schools and career centers across the country.

What is Welding?

Simply put, welding is a method by which two pieces of metal are joined together by applying extreme heat to both. Done properly, the result is a bond between the two which is incredibly strong and durable. All types of metal can be welded, including iron, steel and aluminum. Even different types of metal can be joined in this way, such as aluminum and steel.

Safety Considerations

Welding has a reputation, largely undeserved, for being a dangerous profession. This is due primarily to the fact that it involves creating the extremely high temperatures needed to melt metal. For example, to melt iron or steel requires temperatures close to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit (app. 1600 degrees Celsius)!

To do this usually involves generating electric arcs or using combustible gasses that are under high pressure and are set aflame with a spark. If caution isn’t exercised when welding, the result can be severe shocks or damage to the lungs from inhaling fumes. In addition, burns to the skin or the eyes can occur if proper safety equipment isn’t worn.

Fortunately, these kinds of hazards can be avoided by following some basic precautions. Here’s a list of equipment that you’ll need before you start welding.

Helmet/Hood

This is an absolute must for any welder. Welding arcs give off intense amounts
of ultraviolet radiation, which can do the same damage to your eyes as staring at the sun for long periods of time. To protect against this you need a hood, also known as a helmet, that covers your eyes, face and neck. Cheaper ones have lenses that you can change out by hand, but nowadays most welders use auto-darkening masks that automatically adjust to give your retinas the necessary amount of shade.
These hoods can be found for as little as fifty bucks or so, and do an excellent job of guarding against vision loss. Amazon.com and northerntools.com both sell them, or you can just visit your local welding shop.

Gloves

These are a necessity for welding. Some seasoned welders get by with cotton or wool ones, but for a beginner there’s real only one choice. Buy a pair of quality cowhide ones that cover your hands and forearms and are insulated. NEVER use gloves made of a synthetic material, as these will invariably melt or catch fire, injuring you seriously.

Apron

Another item you simply cannot afford to do without. Get a quality leather apron. It will protect you from flecks of molten metal that occasionally leap off the work area. If one of those touches exposed skin then you’re going to the hospital.

Hat

Especially important if you have longer hair. Wear cotton, not synthetic. Yes, cotton can catch fire, but in this case it’s acceptable, since the only other alternatives usually available are made of synthetic materials that can melt into your skin. Welding shops have cheap hats that are made especially for this purpose.

Basic Safety Practices

Wind and bright sunlight are your enemies when welding. The sun makes it harder to see the flame from your torch, and wind or fan-blown air will interfere with the gasses and electric arcs needed for a strong weld. Do your welding inside the shop, and be ready to deal with the heat. In the summertime keep plenty of cold water or one of those thirst quenching drinks like Gatorade close at hand. If you find yourself sweating profusely or getting dizzy, STOP and take a break. Heat stroke will kill you quick.

While you don’t want wind or fan-blown air, you do want plenty of ventilation in the area where you’re working. Welding creates noxious fumes that can choke you. Be certain you’re not in a tight or enclosed area.

Make sure the pieces you’re welding together are well supported. Metal supports known as “dead men” are readily available, or you can make your own from threaded rod. The parts you’re working on MUST be in the correct orientation, else you’ll be doing the job a second time, and that’s no fun at all.

It can be tempting to just lay the pieces out on a concrete floor and join them together there. Don’t. The heat from a welding torch is so intense that it will vaporize the moisture in the concrete, sending a flash of steam right at you or even dislodging a chunk of cement that, under pressure from heat and steam, will fly at you like a bullet.
Do your welding on a welding table or by using proper supports.

 

Types of Welders

Stick Welding – if all you want to do is simple repairs or basic jobs like joining angle iron together, then this is all the welding you need to learn. Also known as shielded metal arc welding, good systems can be bought new for under $100. This process uses an electric arc that makes direct contact with the metal. The heat of the arc is adjusted by setting the power level, which normally runs from 30 to 225 amps for a basic unit. Lots of farmers are old hands at using these kinds of welders to repair plow blades and other equipment, and perhaps one will show you how to do it if you ask him nicely.

Oxy-Acetylene Gas Welding

This is truly the old-school approach to welding. It offers the advantage of affordability; used rigs are plentiful on sites like craigslist.org as well as in local trade papers. And having one gives you the ability to both weld and cut metal.

One thing to watch out for is the age of the tanks, which must be recertified every 10 years. A used set might need to be recertified, which can be done at a local welding shop. Or you can simply rent tanks form the same store.

MIG/Flux-Core Wire-Feed Welding

This is perhaps the most common type of welding rig you’ll see in auto shops. It relies on a wire feed as well as an inert gas such as argon to complete the weld. A used 120 volt setup will set you back about around $150-$200, not including the gas bottles, which can be picked up at a welding shop.

Making Your Welding Rig Portable

You will probably want a cart to put your welding tools in, so you can take them to the site where the work is being done. These need not be fancy or expensive. In fact, you can buy a cart for $50 or so from Harbor Freight Tools (www.harborfreight.com) . Normally I wouldn’t recommend Harbor Freight as a source for equipment, but they’re not bad at all when it comes to basic items like this one. In addition to their website they have stores in most large to mid-size cities. They’re fun places to browse around, with thousands of items of varying levels of quality.

Wrapping Things Up

I hope you’ve enjoyed this series on putting together your own auto shop. For more information on specific topics, check out the great selection of books available at www.performanceparts.com. Feel free to email or call us with any questions, and best of luck with your automotive projects!

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