Tag Archive for performance

GM Crate Engines Can Bring New Life to an Old Vehicle

You have a car or truck that has seen its better days. When it was younger you drove it everywhere. Trusty and reliable, it never let you down. You came to love it. But now it’s belching smoke from the exhaust, it barely starts, and you wouldn’t drive it around the block.

Don’t send it off to the junkyard, and don’t let it turn to rust in your barn. Bring it back to life with one of our GM Performance Parts crate engines. They’re built to last as long as the OEM motor, and made with all new parts to precise tolerances by master mechanics.

So don’t say a tearful goodbye to your old friend. Bring it back to life with a quality crate engine from PerformanceParts.com. You can find the one you need by going here.

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Stainless Steel Cross Drilled Rotor – Part # 23900AA2R

Now you can enjoy a degree of braking power and control like you’ve never known before. Stainless Steel Slotted and Cross Drilled Rotors offer these fantastic benefits:

*Gas and dust are vented away from the brakes. This prevents the dangerous problem of “cake-over” that can form a film on pad and rotor surfaces, making them slippery and reducing their effectiveness
*Heat is dispelled much quicker than with traditional rotors. This feature guards against burning and warping
*Brake pads make much better contact with the rotor surface, allowing you to stop quicker than with the competition’s components

The Stainless Steel Brake Company is the gold standard for superior quality brake products. For nearly 40 years they have led the way in developing cutting edge parts that give performance drivers greater control over their vehicles, keeping them and their treasured rides safe from harm. Order yours today.

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NASCAR’s Wild Years are Relived in this Exciting Book

SA-CarTech CT409 NASCAR’S Wild Years
Alex Gabbard

For NASCAR, the 1960′s was the decade of intense factory competition. From the full on “Total Performance” effort by Ford to win everything, the Hemi powered cars of the Chrysler Corporation, to the back door support of General Motors 427 big block engines. Special race engines were being developed and the decade ended with wild specially designed, aerodynamically slick bodies. The battle lines were drawn among the factories and the fans were treated to some legendary race cars and even more legendary drivers. It’s all here in this book, from small, southern dirt tracks to the super speedways. All the drama and excitement is right here in the 150 color and 100 black and white photos.
Another great title from CarTech Books.

ISBN: 1-932494-09-X

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Build your Own Home Workshop, Part 6: Welding

by Bill Wilson

Welding is a handy skill to have, not just for working on cars and trucks but also for doing general repairs around your home or for friends and neighbors. In this installment we’re going to cover the fundamentals that you need to know to set up a safe, simple and effective welding station with which you can do basic welds.

This article is intended as a high-level introduction to the subject, not as an in-depth tutorial. If you’ve never welded before and you want to pursue this subject further, there are plenty of more advanced learning resources available, from books and videos to classes offered at tech schools and career centers across the country.

What is Welding?

Simply put, welding is a method by which two pieces of metal are joined together by applying extreme heat to both. Done properly, the result is a bond between the two which is incredibly strong and durable. All types of metal can be welded, including iron, steel and aluminum. Even different types of metal can be joined in this way, such as aluminum and steel.

Safety Considerations

Welding has a reputation, largely undeserved, for being a dangerous profession. This is due primarily to the fact that it involves creating the extremely high temperatures needed to melt metal. For example, to melt iron or steel requires temperatures close to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit (app. 1600 degrees Celsius)!

To do this usually involves generating electric arcs or using combustible gasses that are under high pressure and are set aflame with a spark. If caution isn’t exercised when welding, the result can be severe shocks or damage to the lungs from inhaling fumes. In addition, burns to the skin or the eyes can occur if proper safety equipment isn’t worn.

Fortunately, these kinds of hazards can be avoided by following some basic precautions. Here’s a list of equipment that you’ll need before you start welding.

Helmet/Hood

This is an absolute must for any welder. Welding arcs give off intense amounts
of ultraviolet radiation, which can do the same damage to your eyes as staring at the sun for long periods of time. To protect against this you need a hood, also known as a helmet, that covers your eyes, face and neck. Cheaper ones have lenses that you can change out by hand, but nowadays most welders use auto-darkening masks that automatically adjust to give your retinas the necessary amount of shade.
These hoods can be found for as little as fifty bucks or so, and do an excellent job of guarding against vision loss. Amazon.com and northerntools.com both sell them, or you can just visit your local welding shop.

Gloves

These are a necessity for welding. Some seasoned welders get by with cotton or wool ones, but for a beginner there’s real only one choice. Buy a pair of quality cowhide ones that cover your hands and forearms and are insulated. NEVER use gloves made of a synthetic material, as these will invariably melt or catch fire, injuring you seriously.

Apron

Another item you simply cannot afford to do without. Get a quality leather apron. It will protect you from flecks of molten metal that occasionally leap off the work area. If one of those touches exposed skin then you’re going to the hospital.

Hat

Especially important if you have longer hair. Wear cotton, not synthetic. Yes, cotton can catch fire, but in this case it’s acceptable, since the only other alternatives usually available are made of synthetic materials that can melt into your skin. Welding shops have cheap hats that are made especially for this purpose.

Basic Safety Practices

Wind and bright sunlight are your enemies when welding. The sun makes it harder to see the flame from your torch, and wind or fan-blown air will interfere with the gasses and electric arcs needed for a strong weld. Do your welding inside the shop, and be ready to deal with the heat. In the summertime keep plenty of cold water or one of those thirst quenching drinks like Gatorade close at hand. If you find yourself sweating profusely or getting dizzy, STOP and take a break. Heat stroke will kill you quick.

While you don’t want wind or fan-blown air, you do want plenty of ventilation in the area where you’re working. Welding creates noxious fumes that can choke you. Be certain you’re not in a tight or enclosed area.

Make sure the pieces you’re welding together are well supported. Metal supports known as “dead men” are readily available, or you can make your own from threaded rod. The parts you’re working on MUST be in the correct orientation, else you’ll be doing the job a second time, and that’s no fun at all.

It can be tempting to just lay the pieces out on a concrete floor and join them together there. Don’t. The heat from a welding torch is so intense that it will vaporize the moisture in the concrete, sending a flash of steam right at you or even dislodging a chunk of cement that, under pressure from heat and steam, will fly at you like a bullet.
Do your welding on a welding table or by using proper supports.

 

Types of Welders

Stick Welding – if all you want to do is simple repairs or basic jobs like joining angle iron together, then this is all the welding you need to learn. Also known as shielded metal arc welding, good systems can be bought new for under $100. This process uses an electric arc that makes direct contact with the metal. The heat of the arc is adjusted by setting the power level, which normally runs from 30 to 225 amps for a basic unit. Lots of farmers are old hands at using these kinds of welders to repair plow blades and other equipment, and perhaps one will show you how to do it if you ask him nicely.

Oxy-Acetylene Gas Welding

This is truly the old-school approach to welding. It offers the advantage of affordability; used rigs are plentiful on sites like craigslist.org as well as in local trade papers. And having one gives you the ability to both weld and cut metal.

One thing to watch out for is the age of the tanks, which must be recertified every 10 years. A used set might need to be recertified, which can be done at a local welding shop. Or you can simply rent tanks form the same store.

MIG/Flux-Core Wire-Feed Welding

This is perhaps the most common type of welding rig you’ll see in auto shops. It relies on a wire feed as well as an inert gas such as argon to complete the weld. A used 120 volt setup will set you back about around $150-$200, not including the gas bottles, which can be picked up at a welding shop.

Making Your Welding Rig Portable

You will probably want a cart to put your welding tools in, so you can take them to the site where the work is being done. These need not be fancy or expensive. In fact, you can buy a cart for $50 or so from Harbor Freight Tools (www.harborfreight.com) . Normally I wouldn’t recommend Harbor Freight as a source for equipment, but they’re not bad at all when it comes to basic items like this one. In addition to their website they have stores in most large to mid-size cities. They’re fun places to browse around, with thousands of items of varying levels of quality.

Wrapping Things Up

I hope you’ve enjoyed this series on putting together your own auto shop. For more information on specific topics, check out the great selection of books available at www.performanceparts.com. Feel free to email or call us with any questions, and best of luck with your automotive projects!

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Build Your Own Home Workshop, Part 5: Electric Tools and Testers

by Bill Wilson

Power-driven tools add a host of new capabilities to the home workshop, but they can also quickly become prohibitively expensive. In this post I will spend most of the time discussing the basic ones that almost every shop will want to have. Later on I’ll discuss others that will come in handy for more specialized tasks, such as bodywork, painting and mounting tires to wheels.

Drill Press

This is a must-have for any properly equipped shop. Fortunately, perfectly adequate ones can be found at very reasonable costs. You’ll definitely want one with an attached vise to hold parts in place while you drill. Otherwise parts are likely to start spinning around like a top.

Try to get a drill press with at least a ½ horsepower motor. One way to save money is to buy a press that mounts on a table, as opposed to one with a built-in floor stand.

In addition to the press, you’ll want quality hardened bits in all the major sizes, such as ¼, 5/16, ½, 9/16, etc. Make sure they’re intended for metalwork. Have plenty of spares as well, because nothing will wear a bit down like drilling through steel. Step-bits have a specially designed head that creates a pilot hole for the main bit to follow. Buy these if your budget permits; you’ll find they save a lot of hassle.

Handheld/Angle Grinder

If you get no other power tool, get one of these, along with several different types of grinding discs. They clean up the crud left over after welding. They remove excess metal or paint. They’ll make short work of surface rust. They can even be used to sharpen a lawnmower blade that has been removed from the mower and securely clamped into a vise. Always wear goggles or safety glasses when using one of these simple yet amazing tools.

Bench Grinder

This is one of those classic tools that can do dozens of jobs. It earns its keep soon after purchase. A typical grinder will have a rough stone on one end and a smoother stone on the other. They’re great for removing metal. Others have wire wheels on both ends for stripping away paint and rust. Buy both kinds if you can. They come in handy quite often.

Belt Sanders

These are similar to grinders, except they are good for more precise tasks, such as shaping sheet metal or small parts.

Bandsaw

Good to have on hand for cutting aluminum and softer materials. Be sure to use fine-toothed blades meant for cutting metal metal.

Chop Saw/Circular Saw

Another tool that will slice through metal the way a kitchen knife cuts through bread. Carbide- or diamond-tipped blades will last longer, and their costs reflect that fact. There are circular saws on the market that spin slower than the ones used by woodworkers. These are acceptable alternatives.

NEVER use the high-speed table or circular saws popular with furniture builders and carpenters. They spin so fast that metal cutting blades can come apart during the job, sending ultra-sharp shrapnel flying through the air towards your head. Something like that could ruin your whole day, quick.

Vehicle Battery Charger

Excellent for – what else? – charging batteries!

Diagnostic Tools

Code Reader

A good one can be had for around $50. It’s the single best investment you can make for working on cars made after 1995. The onboard diagnostic system will tell you where the trouble lies, saving you hours of troubleshooting. By plugging one into the vehicle’s access port you can download its codes, so you’ll know what they’re trying to tell you.
Without the ability to properly diagnose what’s wrong, you’re left with no other choice but to guess, and to replace parts blindly in hopes of getting it right.

Timing Light

Here’s another item you can’t afford to be without. Most cars are timed by the number-1 cylinder. A timing light connects to both the plug wire for that cylinder and the vehicle’s battery. Pointing the light at the pulley tells you whether the timing mark on the pulley is in sync with the one on the body of the engine.

Very basic timing lights can be found, as well as ones with all sorts of bells and whistle that add nothing to the tool’s basic purpose. Get a simple, dependable one made by a reputable manufacturer. You’ll be very glad you did.

Multimeter and Continuity Tester

I hate working on vehicle electrical systems. So do most people. Nonetheless, it’s a task that can’t be avoided forever. A multimeter will make the job simpler. With one, you can check around faults, hot wires, and virtually everything electric in the vehicle. If you’ve never used one, there are plenty of videos on YouTube and other sites that will teach you the basics.

A continuity tester makes testing for electric current an easy affair. Attach the alligator clip to the end that you think has power, and then touch the metal probe to ground. If the light comes on you’ve got juice. If not, you’ve got problems that might cause a lot of aggravation to fix. See why I hate working with wiring?

Battery/Alternator Tester

You can get away with buying one of these at a discount store because they are very simple inside. Attach the leads to the poles of the battery or alternator and pull the switch. If the gauge shows 13-14 volts and holds steady then you’re in good shape. If it drops below 12 volts after 15 seconds or so then the battery or alternator needs replacing.

Spark Tester

These run under 20 bucks and are worth every penny. Stick it into a plug wire and you’ll soon know if you’re getting spark.

Compression Tester

Tearing down and rebuilding engines is a dying art, especially since crate engines have become so affordable. Nonetheless, you’ll still need to diagnose internal problems, a task that a compression tester makes easy. You’ll find kinds that screw into a spark plug hole as well as ones with rubber tips that you’ll need to hold in yourself. The thread-in ones are more time-consuming but also more accurate.

Using Compressed Air Without Breaking Your Budget

Most professional shops have large, powerful compressors and fittings placed throughout the work area where pneumatic drills and other tools can be plugged in. Learning how to create a setup like that is beyond the scope of these articles, but it is certainly within the abilities of a seasoned home mechanic who can supply the needed voltage. PVC pipe provides a fairly inexpensive material to fashion the lines from. If you go this route, be sure to use at least Schedule 40 PVC, which is rated for 289 PSI in ¾ inch pipe and 270 PSI in one inch pipe. This book gives detailed instructions on how to outfit your shop in this way.

On the other hand, a portable compressor can be had for under $500 that will meet the needs of most enthusiasts. A 15 gallon model that generates 200 PSI will reliably create 5.4 SCFM at 90 PSI, enough force to run an impact wrench, ratchet wrench, paint sprayer or air sander. Direct drive models don’t need added oil, and most folks find they run a bit quieter than belt-driven ones.

Equip your shop with the tools and testers described in this article and the one previous to it and you’ll be well prepared to handle almost any job that the home mechanic is likely to face. Of course you may want to expand your capabilities further, specifically into doing jobs that require welding skills and equipment. We’ll look at this topic in the next post.

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Building Your Own Home Workshop, Part Three: Storage

by Bill Wilson

Okay, so you’ve gotten the permits, built or remodeled the structure that will house your shop, and you’re looking at that big (or not so big), empty space, wondering what to put in it.

Well, first things first. Before you bring in the tools or your first project vehicle, you need a place to put all of the equipment and supplies you’ll need. And that means having a storage system. For maximum efficiency and safety, you’ll want it located against the walls, leaving the center of the shop open and unrestricted as much as possible.

Storage Options: the Bad

Unfortunately, there are plenty of less than wonderful options out there for creating storage. Department stores and discount centers typically carry shelving units made of thin metal, particle board or injection molded plastics.

While these products may work fine for a homemaker looking for a place to put her washing powder and cleaning products, they’re much too fragile for workshop use. Try putting a 4-barrel carb or bellwether housing on one and more likely than not it will come crashing down, possibly on top of you.

Storage Options: the Good – and Sometimes the Ugly

The choices available for strong, sturdy shelving are many. The simplest – and most expensive – choice is to buy stainless steel racks like the ones used by butchers. You can find these at home improvement stores like Home Depot, or at warehouse outlets such as Sam’s Club. They hold a decent amount of weight and can be cleaned simply by hosing them down, making them popular with restaurants and other food prep businesses.

Racks like these are good looking, strong and easily cleaned; they’re also pricey

If your budget doesn’t permit this kind of expense or if you will be storing whole engines or transmissions and need shelves that will hold serious weight, then don’t worry. Cheap, durable shelves and storage boxes can be built from standard dimensional lumber found at any lumber yard. To make the units even stronger, you can reinforce them with angle iron, which can be bought very cheaply at your local metal scrap yard.

Simple dimensional lumber can be used to make perfectly usable shelves

Plans to build this kind of storage are all over the Internet, as well as in woodworking publications.

The bottom line is that your choices for shelving are limited only by your imagination.
Perfectly good storage units have been made from shipping crates, planks lying across masonry blocks, old gym lockers, heavy duty metal filing cabinets, and even kitchen cabinets reclaimed from condemned houses. So long as it is sound, sturdy, and leaves plenty of room in the center of the shop for work to take place, then appearance matters little.

One more thing – add as much storage space as you can, more than you think you will need. You can never have enough.

Bins

In addition to shelves, you’ll need smaller bins for screws, clips, washers and various other fasteners. Your options range from the units sold in auto parts and home improvement stores to coffee cans, empty mayonnaise or food jars that have been washed out, or any small, sturdy container that can be labeled and easily accessed.
Check home handyman websites and magazines for simple yet clever ways to make these kinds of projects. This site is a great resource for plans and ideas.

 In this example peanut butter jars do double duty as parts bins

Once you’ve got your storage system in place, next comes the fun part: deciding what tools you’ll need to get started. We’ll look at that next time.

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PERFORMANCEPARTS.COM CONTINUES SPONSORSHIP WITH THE CONTINGENCY CONNECTION FOR 2012

PerformanceParts.com is a proud sponsor of the Contingency Connection for 2012. We continue supporting the company that allows us to get our name where it needs to be, reaching a large volume of racers and fans at various tracks throughout the country. PerformanceParts.com is able to market “at the track with our customers,” and stay linked directly to engine builders and machine shops, thanks to the exposure provided by the Contingency Connection. PerformanceParts.com looks forward to participating in the race marketing program, as well as the engine builder program, and we look forward to another great year with the Contingency Connection!

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Creating your own Auto Workshop on a Budget

by Bill Wilson

Part One: Planning

You’ve decided it’s time you had a proper shop to do your automotive work in. Congratulations! Having a space or entire building devoted entirely to working on cars or trucks is a wise move, even if your mechanical ambitions are driven more by passion than by profit. While there’s a great tradition in being a “shade tree” auto technician, there’s only so much you can do in the driveway or backyard.

Having a dedicated workshop offers several advantages. The first is climate control. If you’ve ever changed oil or replaced brake pads in the dead of winter or the stifling heat of August then you know what I mean. A properly designed shop will allow you to do essential tasks even when there are three feet of snow on the ground. And when the summer temperatures climb into the 90s you’ll be glad for a space where you can install air conditioning, or at least have a fan blowing cool air on you at all times. Rain, sleet, hail and other precipitation won’t stand in your way either.

You’ll also be able to work safer. Back in the day, I worked on vehicles parked on gravel or just plain dirt. Looking back on that, I wonder how I survived. Even on hard packed surfaces, the weight of vehicles will make jack stands and ramps sink into the ground, compromising your safety. In contrast, a shop offers the solid support of concrete, or at the very least wood.

Having your own shop also allows you to have your tools out of the elements and within easy reach. Even if you only perform routine maintenance, such as oil changes and tune-ups, having a roof over your head and a sturdy floor beneath your feet will enable you to work faster and safer, with more satisfying results. Plus, you’ll be able to keep not only tools but parts and supplies neatly stored and easily accessible, as opposed to trotting across the yard every five minutes to your house or to a storage building for a bolt or for a bottle of transmission fluid.

Of course, like any project, creating your own shop requires planning in order to be a success. Here are some things you’ll want to keep in mind during the process.

Safety

This comes first. After all, you can’t work on cars when you’re dead. Yet every year people are tragically killed in their own shops, due to vehicles falling, electrocution, or tool-related accidents. Don’t become one of them. Plan for safety.
One thing you’ll want to have on hand is a five or ten pound fire extinguisher.
Make certain it can put out flames caused by chemicals such as gasoline. Look for the ABC designation on the casing. If it’s within your budget, look at getting a fire suppression system, such as overhead sprinklers. They start for under a thousand bucks.

You’ll also need a smoke detector. Battery ones are fine so long as you keep fresh cells in it. If you can afford one, a hard wired detector offers more convenience.
A carbon monoxide detector is also essential. Both auto exhausts as well as flame-based heaters give off fumes that can kill you

Ventilation

Gas, paint and cleaning solutions can affect your judgment or simply poison your lungs. Guard against this by making sure that your shop has good air flow. A ventilation fan built into the structure itself is a great solution, but simply having industrial fans plugged into outlets and blowing constantly works fine as well.

Working Space

In an ideal world, every automotive enthusiast would have a giant building with tons of space for the latest tools, as well as multiple vehicles, three or four lifts, and an office/break room equipped with comfortable chairs, a TV and a fridge stocked with snacks.

But, as you well know, the world is far from ideal. You may find that the only area available to you does double or triple duty, as a spot to keep the lawnmower or weed eater out of the rain, to store Christmas decorations, or to house the family washer and dryer. So be it; in most cases you can still make do. The key is careful planning.

The first thing you’ll need is a measuring tape. Don’t rely on an eyeball estimate of the dimensions; measure them carefully. Be sure to include the space from floor to ceiling, especially if you plan to include a lift, which will require at least 12 feet of clearance, preferably 16 or more. Keep in mind as well that a lift requires a concrete floor that is at least 5 or 6 inches thick and is reinforced with steel.

Once you have accurate measurements, you’ll need to figure out how much room you’ll need for your tools, as well as parts and supplies and of course a vehicle or two. That gets into the subject of planning your shop’s layout, which we’ll look at next time. In the meantime, consider buying a copy of the best-selling book “How to Design, Build and Equip Your Automotive Workshop on a Budget.” Order it from our website by going here.

 

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Dress Up Your Chevy Engine with this Great Kit

Imagine the looks you’ll get when you finish out your performance vehicle with this dress-up kit for Chevy small-block engines. You’ll stand out in a crowd with the striking orange valve covers, bowtie emblems and the word CHEVROLET proudly displayed in bold, classic text. Here’s what you’ll receive:

 Two tall, baffled valve covers (141-784)
 A 14 inch air cleaner kit (141-785)
 A timing chain cover (141-783)
 Eight valve cover nuts (141-601 in two packages)
 Eight valve cover hold-down clamps (141-782 in two packages)
 A matching bowtie push-in valve cover breather cap (141-786)

These parts are built to stay strong and keep their great looks over the long haul. They’re electrostatically painted and heat-treated with an ultra-durable epoxy, giving them the power to shrug off the elements and stay corrosion-free for years. Make your vehicle look as great as it runs. Order this set today.  Part # 141-780

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The Edelbrock Story


by Bill Wilson

The Beginning

The year was 1938, and Vic Edelbrock was an unhappy man. He had just bought a 1932 Ford Roadster, and was let down by its lack of horsepower. His keen mind figured out the problem: a defect in the intake manifold’s design. His answer to the issue was to build his own manifold, which he nicknamed The Slingshot.

Not only did it improve performance, it allowed dual carburetors to be mounted on the engine, giving horsepower a giant boost. In fact, it increased it so much that Vic broke the standing speed record for the flying quarter mile with his ’32 Roadster in November of 1941. And so began the aftermarket auto parts industry.

At the time there were no aftermarket parts manufacturers to speak of, just independent hobbyists who built their own. But when word of Vic’s record breaking accomplishment got out, he was flooded with requests to build more Slingshots. Happy to accommodate his new fans, he ultimately made and sold over a hundred customized manifolds to eager buyers.

Then World War 2 came along, and Vic was occupied with building battle ships and airplane parts for the next four years. When peace came in 1945 he went back to constructing aftermarket parts, adding aluminum cylinder heads to his line. Demand for his products grew so much that in 1946 he and his buddy Pete Peterson put together his first catalog. It was an innovation that marked the end of his days as a garage mechanic and turned him into a full-time performance parts manufacturer.

Early Victories

By 1949 his company was making manifolds, cylinder heads and pistons out of a brand-new shop he had built just for that purpose. He led the way in new innovations, being one of the first manufacturers to use an engine dynamometer. By the 1950s he was still at the head of the pack, racing on dry lake beds as well as at the Bonneville Speedway, under the auspices of the newly formed California Roadster Association (CRA).

Always a pioneer, Vic expanded into midget car racing in the late 1940s, after buying a car built by Frank Kurtis. He loved the little vehicles so much that he began touring southern California’s dirt tracks with flathead engine guru Bobby Meeks, tuning their engines right there at the raceway.

As the 1950s went on, Vic kept setting the bar higher and higher for racing engines. At the time the cream of the crop in midget racing vehicles were those built by Fred Offenhauser. Fred got the crown knocked off his head, however, when Vic’s Kurtis Kraft V8-60 midget car outran an Offenhauser-powered vehicle at Gilmore Stadium, the Mecca of midget racing. At the time the win was regarded as a crazy fluke. Vic got the last laugh the following evening, though, when the same car again came out on top, this time at a track in San Bernadino.

A New Start

Vic passed away in 1962 after a battle with cancer. He was succeeded by his only son, Vic Edelbrock, Jr., who was 26 at the time. A graduate of USC with a degree in business, he took over as president and CEO.
He led the company into becoming a member of the Specialty Equipment Manufacturing Association (SEMA) in the 60s and served as its president from 1971-74.

The 1970s saw the company go through a period of adjustments. The 1971 Clean Air Act and the OPEC embargo placed new challenges on the firm to develop cleaner, more efficient products. In response, it released its line of Streetmaster intake manifolds that boosted mileage as well as performance.

In 1987 the firm moved to new facilities in Torrance, CA where it remains to this day. The five-story corporate building occupies over 400,000 square feet. There’s also a 73,000 square foot foundry in San Jacinto.

In 1999 and 2000 Forbes magazine named Edelbrock one of the best 200 small companies in the United States. Today it’s an enterprise that manufactures over 8,000 different parts and has revenues in excess of $100 million a year, impressive results for a venture that began in 1938 with one man, a 1932 Roadster, and a commitment to being the best.

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