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"How To" Articles from Performance Parts
1. Are the bolts on the base bracket correctly tightened?
2. Are the mounting bolts on the caliper correctly tightened?
3. Do the rotors slide easily onto the axle?
4. Does the splash shield, the brackets or any other part interfere with the rotor?
5. Is the caliper centered over the rotor? Hint: axles differ in length, so you might have to shim the caliper in and out.
6. Is there any interference with the caliper or rotor?
7. Are all the brake parts tight? Are there ... [Read more]
1. Is the spindle securely mounted to the ball joints? Is the castle nut and cotter pin inserted?
2. Are the mounting bolts tightened properly?
3. Are the wheel bearings packed with grease?
4. Were the inner bearings put in place before the grease seal was added?
5. Did the rotors and bearings slide easily onto the spindle?
6. Are the washer and castle nut properly torqued? Is a cotter pin installed?
7. Are the calipers in place? Are they properly torqued?
8. Does the rotor ... [Read more]
Dual port hole master cylinders must be bled on both port sides of the master cylinder. (Dual port holes = 4 port holes with 2 on each side). Failure to do so will trap air in the system, causing brake failure.
Here’s how to bleed a dual port master cylinder:
First, refer to the master cylinder bench bleeding tutorial on this site and follow its instructions for the side you’ll be hooking the brake lines to. The other side must be plugged.
Second, look for air ... [Read more]
All air MUST be removed from a master cylinder when it is installed.
Bench bleeding is the best way to do this. Use the SSBC master cylinder bleeder kit, # 0460.
First, clamp down on the cylinder ears in a vise, not the body. Ensure that it’s level.
Second, attach a clear plastic hose to one of the plastic nozzles (the short end). Attach one to the other hose and the nozzle too.
Third, using a clip, attach the clear plastic bridge to the wall. ... [Read more]
Brake systems are indispensable, but they can also drive you crazy. Leaks, noises, squeaks, squeals and other issues can make your life miserable as they pop up again and again. In this tutorial we’ll look at common braking problems and how to diagnose their causes.
Problem: After changing the pads and rotors my brakes work fine, except that I hear a clicking noise when I go from forward to reverse.
Likely cause: Most modern calipers use anchor brackets with stainless steel clips. They’re made of spring ... [Read more]
Q: Why is my brake pedal soft?
A: The usual cause of this issue is air trapped in the lines or the calipers. Bleeding the system may help. Don’t force new fluid into new lines; that might cause foaming, which makes bleeding extremely hard.
Important: The caliper bleeding screws MUST be facing upward!!
Is all of the air removed from the system? If so, the booster pushrod that’s under the dash may need to be adjusted to lengthen it (some can’t be adjusted). Don’t ... [Read more]
Q: I’ve got a late Model Mustang and/or Camaro with anti-lock brakes. How do I install a lock line?
A: First, make sure you use the right lock line kit for the application. Most of the time a line lock will go after the factory ABS and fluid distribution system.
Q: I’m switching a disc/drum car to a disc/disc system. Do I have to change the master cylinder?
A: The answer depends on the rear caliper used. A disc/drum brake master cylinder has a ... [Read more]
Not all disk brake pads are created equal. Your powerful street machine won’t brake well for long if you’re using typical pads from your neighborhood store. On circle tracks or in a road race,those pads can give out suddenly, causing you to lose the race, your car, or even worse.
The world of performance braking can be vast and confusing, with myriad choices for materials, friction values and wear and temperature ratings. Hawk Performance makes superior pads for both street and race purposes. Bendix, Raybestos ... [Read more]
For street use brake pads it’s important to follow proper bed in procedures. Failure to do so can hurt your performance and cause unnecessary brake noise.
A series of ten stops can do the job, but twenty stops are recommended. This is how to do it:
1. Going from 15 to 60 mph, come to a partial stop. Be sure not to come to a complete stop, as this can cause uneven pad wear.
2. The brakes should be between 50-60% during stops. Make sure your ... [Read more]
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